Tuesday, November 10, 2015

6 – Saalhof Castle Cellar and Remnants, Frankfurt (1100s – 1200s)




Frankfurt was at the center of German political culture throughout the middle ages. According to Wikipedia, Charlemagne himself hung out in Frankfurt in the 790s. The city became capital of “East Francia”, the headquarters for the “Kingdom of the East Franks” in the 800s and 900s. At one point, the Saalhof Castle was built in Frankfurt and became the home of Carolingian royalty during the 1100-1200s. The place was later occupied beginning in the 1300s by the family of wealthy merchant Jacob Knobloch.

Somewhere I read a commentary that it was precisely because Frankfurt is so significant in German history that the Allies gave it extra hard treatment during the War. In fact, it looks like they obliterated nearly all of the original medieval-era neighborhoods in and around the Alstadt (old town) of Frankfurt.

Here’s a image of what the the historic part of old Frankfurt looked like after WW II bombing:


Notice the charred, roasted, bombed-out cathedral near the river. Just to the left of that is the site of the sprawling Saalhof Castle estate. As you can see here, most of the structure above-ground was destroyed. 

Despite the devastation, the Frankfurt Historical Museum today sits on top of a part of the Saalhof Castle site. The Museum now has on display in the castle’s cellars items from the original Carolingian palace that was there during the 1100’s, including fragments of Romanesque-like pillars, and a stone from the wealthy family that lived there afterwards. It’s just a cellar with some remnants that remains today, but the display tells a great story.

In addition, a 12th century chapel that was associated with the castle complex amazingly survived the WWII bombing at least partly intact. There is also a part of the old city wall that was excavated.  The pictures I took of the chapel and the wall turned out horrible so I can’t include them here --but I encourage anyone to go see them.

Anyway, here are a few scenes of the Castle cellar. They include items I assume were handpicked salvaged from the war rubble. 







And this was my favorite.  It’s from the 1200s and is of a face carved into a wash basin.   




I recommend a visit to the Frankfurt Historical Museum to anyone traveling through the area.   Here is their webpage on this display:







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