One of the most prominent features of the old area of
Hannover is the Marktkirche, the basic construction of which dates to the mid-1300s
(around the same period as the Aegidienkirche, or so it would seem). Excavations in the 20th century
showed it sits on the spot of another, earlier church that existed there in the
1100s.
Marktkirche was, like the rest of Hannover, very severely bombed
during WWII. A photo and scale model of
how it appeared after the bombing shows that it was just a shell of structure,
with its guts blasted out -- although, being it was made of stone, its basic
shape and some of the exterior stone features were able to survive to
today. It was lovingly rebuilt in the
decade after the war.
Marktkirche has a rich history central to Hannover and is
also one of the most visited tourist spots in the area. Now, as with many other old structures, there seem a large number of places on the
web to learn about it. No need to bore anyone with photos and stories that have
been shared over and over, but I do want to point out a few outstanding details
that caught my eye.
First and foremost is the altar piece, a hand-carved and
painted wooden panorama of 21 scene panels showing the Passion of Christ,
purportedly dating to c. 1480. If you
are interested in late medieval artwork, you can easily spend an hour looking
carefully at each panel. This thing is a masterpiece. The Wikipedia page for Marktkirche says that this thing only survived the
bombing because it had been moved offsite in the 1600s but was eventually relocated back to the church after the War.
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The Marktkirche Passion of Christ, wood panel section altar piece. |
Even if you are not Christian, you have to admit that the photo above is of a beautiful thing. A hand-carved and painted thing that was carefully designed and made-to-order in an era of low-technology. This photo also illustrates how much detail one can miss in relying on crummy cell phone photos on the Internet.
As an ever-grateful tourist, I encourage others to go visit the Marktkirche and appreciate the history and all the hard work that so many have done to preserve these places.
Also notable are the few sculptures still remaining. In one, located above the main front entrance,
it looks like a grim reaper is chasing a peasant with a walking stick.
Human caricatures in two other figures also appear on the sides
of the doorway, with a shocked, intense expression on their faces -- as if they are meeting divine intervention or
even screaming in purgatory. If I recall
correctly (b/c I can’t find photos to confirm) they each appear opposite and almost
facing one another, one on each side of the grand carved doorway entrance.
I am guessing that somewhere is a deep medieval Christian
philosophy behind the expressions on these figures. And perhaps
there are writings out there on these two particular individuals (or ones like
them). Nevertheless, the fact that they
ended up here at this particular church brings an irony: these two have been
holding these same expressions during all of the most significant moments throughout
Hannover’s history, including those times their church was bombed and in
flames.
And yet they survived.
And you can go see them.
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View of Marktkirche side from the adjacent Rathaus |